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Dabbing Temperatures

Posted on December 14, 2019 - 9:00 am

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Did you know that I take requests for blog topics? For real, sometimes it feels like I’m a DJ or a cover band, because regulars who actually read these things will come in to our Durango dispensary and ask me to write something in-depth about this or that topic, and if it’s something I haven’t covered, I never argue. And this week, that’s exactly what’s happening, because the “what temperature should I use when dabbing” question has come up more than once, so let’s get into it.

First things first, if you want a refresher on exactly what it means to “dab,” click HERE, but then again, if you’re at the point wherein you’re looking for the perfect temperature, it might be a bit redundant. Now, as to temperatures, there are two ways to measure accurately after heating your nail or banger. One, if you’re the type of dabber who uses a torch, you’ll need a temperature laser gun, and a savvy shopper can get one for about $30 online. With this gun, you heat up your nail or banger with your torch per usual, but then you shoot it with the laser to get a temperature readout. If it’s too cold, use more flame, if it’s too hot, be patient and wait, or blow on your nail lightly.

Yes, this is the most labor-intensive way of achieving a perfect dab temperature, but it’s also the most affordable, because an E-Nail can cost quite a bit (but it’s quite a bit better). Long story short, an e-nail is an electronic doohickey that you attach to the ribs on your nail or onto the bottom of your banger. Then all you do is flip a switch to turn it on, and then set the temperature on the electronic readout to the exact reading you’d like. The e-nail will keep your nail or banger at the desired temperature, so there’s no need for torches or lasers, and you don’t have to worry about cooling, so you’ll get consistent dab temperatures for each hit.

Now, before we get to the actual temperatures (we’ll get there, I promise), there are two peripheral things we need to discuss, the first of which is the material out of which your nail or banger is made. Most people turn to titanium because they never break, but I’d suggest rethinking this choice, especially if you’re the type of consumer concerned with quality (and if you’re worried about exact temperatures, that’s exactly who you are). Yes, titanium is durable, it heats up quickly, and it retains heat, but the taste isn’t nearly as good as it is with other materials, and there are many different titanium alloys on the market, which leads to inconsistences. So, that would leave you with two material options: quartz, or ceramic. Quartz heats up very quickly and it gives a superb flavor, but it also cools down quickly, and since quartz is transparent, you cannot get an accurate temperature reading with one of those fancy laser guns. So, I recommend ceramic. It’s not transparent, so a laser gun will work, but ceramic also goes well with e-nails. True, ceramic nails or bangers take the longest to heat up, but patience is a good thing, and they retain heat as well as provide perfect flavor.

The second issue is that internal temperature differs greatly from surface temperature, but you only need to worry about this with e-nails because the laser gun method reads surface temperature only, and that’s what matters. So, if you’re using an e-nail and you’re hunting for the perfect dab temperature, I’d recommend reading THIS study, because the e-nail regulates internal temperature, which is usually lower than the surface temperature. So, when using an e-nail, you’ll need to crank up the temperature by ten degrees or so to ensure that the nail’s surface is where you want it.

Alright, on to the numbers. There are five basic temperature ranges, which I’ll give in Fahrenheit, but don’t worry, I’ll break these down as well:

1.) 0⁰-300⁰: this is a very low-temp dab, and it will give the best flavor, but many cannabinoids won’t be vaporized at this temperature, so you’ll end up wasting quite a bit of your dab, which is no good.

2.) 300⁰-450⁰: This range is the goldilocks zone because it’s just right, so aim here. You still get all the flavor from a low-temp dab, but you also vaporize all the cannabinoids, so the intensity is there as well.

3.) 450⁰-600⁰: You need to be careful at this temperature because with the last two, all you’re getting is vapor, but when you get north of 450 degrees, you also start to burn your dab, so your hit will be a mixture of vapor and smoke. So, you’ll gain intensity at the cost of flavor, and if you’re reading this blog, that’s not what you want.

4.) 600⁰-1000⁰: Don’t do this. Just about everything you’ll breathe in is smoke, and you’ll get absurdly high, but the harshness will cover up all the flavor. This is like taking double shots of whiskey instead of sipping it, and with fine whiskey, or fine dabs, that’s completely pointless and superfluous.

Now, let’s get into exact temperatures. As you know, when you dab something, the heat from your nail or banger should cause the product to boil, not burn (which is why the last two temperature ranges are too high), so what you’re breathing in is the “steam” or vapor from the flash-boiled material. So, all you need to do to dial in your dab temperature is to find the exact boiling point for the cannabinoid or terpene you’re trying to enjoy. For instance, here are the three boiling points for three different cannabinoids:

THC: 315⁰

CBD: 356⁰

CBN: 365⁰

So, can you see why the “0-300” degree range will give you good flavor but not much intensity? You’ll boil some terpenes, but the THC itself won’t boil until 315 degrees, so you’ll be missing out on most of the high. However, (and this is where we get into the connoisseur stuff), quite a few dabbers are looking to enjoy specific terpenes, so I’ll provide those temperatures as well. And I’m not going to get into the terpenes themselves, because if you’re about to dab them, you already know (but for a refresher, click HERE). Here are the boiling points and tasting notes for six of the most famous cannabis terpenes:

Myrcene: 330⁰ This one tastes like cloves and funk.

Limonene: 350⁰ This one tasted like citrus fruit rinds.

Linalool: 388⁰ This is the floral-tasting terpene.

Caryophyllene: 390⁰ This one tastes peppery.

Pinene: 420⁰ Yes, it tastes like pine.

Humulene: 435⁰ This one tastes like the forest (trust me).

The last thing we need to discuss is hand-held vape pens. The affordable ones have low, medium, and high temperature settings, so again, I’d go with medium because balance is always best. However, if you spent the money and got a vape pen with a digital readout, go ahead and use the same degree settings as you would with a nail or banger because you’ll get the same flavor profiles, albeit with a smaller vapor cloud.

There! That’s just about all there is to know when it comes to vape temperatures, and if you’re one of the people who requested this topic, I kept my promise! However, if you still have questions, come in and see us at 208 Parker Avenue, or give us a call at (970) 403-3710, and we’ll answer them. Or, if there’s something pot-related you’d like me to write about, come in to our Durango dispensary and ask for Jesse and then tell me your idea. We’re always willing to take requests to keep you informed, because We’re Your Best Buds!

Different Kinds of Marijuana Vape Oil

Posted on December 7, 2019 - 9:00 am

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The CDC finally said something concrete about all the noise that’s been in the news lately about vape-related illnesses! You can read the full article HERE, but basically, they’re saying that Vitamin E Acetate may the problem, which only shows up in black market vape cartridges. It’s typical illegal drug dealer nonsense: when they have a bunch of cannabis oil, they want to cut it with an additive to stretch their product, and since vitamin E oil looks like cannabis oil, that’s what a bunch of them used thinking it’d be okay because it’s a vitamin. But, it’s not—the oil congeals in your lungs making oxygen absorption difficult (if not impossible), and then people end up in hospitals.

Again, and I’m going to use all-caps for emphasis, VITAMIN E ACETATE DOES NOT EXIST IN ANY OF THE VAPE PRODUCTS WE SELL, so it’s not something you need to worry about in our Durango dispensary. And really, it’s not even the reason I sat down to write this blog. Ever since vapes started showing up in the news, the people walking through our doors have more questions than usual (rightfully so), and many of them are centered on the different types of cannabis oil we sell. So, this week, I wanted to get proactive and write about all the differences to give you some reference material, and frankly, it’s a necessity these days because we sell six different types. Let’s get into them:

Ethanol Oil: This was the first type of commercial vape oil on the market, and even though it started to disappear a couple years ago due to the emergence of other extraction methods, we’re seeing a resurgence of ethanol vapes on the market because it’s an easy and cost-effective way of making oils. When ethanol is used, a bunch of flower is soaked in ethanol to make a slurry, and then the slurry goes into a purge oven to remove the residual ethanol. It’s as simple as that, and if you want to try an ethanol-distilled oil, try one of our V3 Cartridges.

CO2: The emergence of CO2 is one of the factors that led to the decline in ethanol distillation because CO2 is less caustic than ethanol, but it’s also a more costly process. First, the flower is ground as finely a flour, and then it’s baked to decarboxylate the cannabinoids. The baked flower is then put into a stainless-steel tube, through which supercritical CO2 is pumped (the CO2 acts as a solvent and strips all the cannabinoids from the flower). The resulting oil is poured out, and then it’s put through an ethanol winterization process to remove the residual lipids and whatnot. And if you’d like to try a CO2 oil vape for comparison purposes, come snag one of our Sweet Cartridges or Lucky Turtle Syringes; they’re both wonderful.

BHO: This is where we start getting into the three-letter acronyms, which can be a bit tricky, but “BHO” stands for “butane hash oil.” Most BHO products come in solid forms, such as shatter or wax, and they’re like the ethanol products in that the end product must go into a purge oven to remove the residual butane. However, the process is identical to CO2 oils, albeit with butane instead of CO2. Get it? We don’t sell any BHO carts in our shop, but we have plenty of wax and shatter, so we’ve still got you covered.

PHO: No, this isn’t the spicy Asian soup that everyone mispronounces; “PHO” stands for “Propane Hash Oil.” And for the record, please don’t be worried about the butane or propane used to make these products. They’re all purged out and the products are tested by state-licensed labs to make sure it’s done properly; that’s why legal products are better than the black-market versions. Anyway, yes, you guessed it, the PHO process is identical to the BHO process, except propane is used instead of butane. However, PHO products can be much tastier because propane strips the cannabinoids out of flower at lower temperatures and pressures than other hydrocarbons, and the end product is a much brighter yellow that’s richer in terpenes. We just brought on a new PHO cart from Shift that’s simply wonderful because all the cannabis terpenes contained in each cart are listed on the label. It’s next level. For real, if you call yourself a cannabis connoisseur but you’ve never tried a PHO cart, you need to come in immediately.

SHO: “SHO” stands for “solventless hash oil,” and this is the rare stuff. It’s exceedingly difficult and costly to make a vaporizable oil without solvents because the only things you’re allowed to use are pressure, heat, and water, and the end product usually ends up being lower in THC than the hydrocarbon counterparts. Right now, we have two SHO products in solid form, Rosin and Live Rosin, but there’s a chance we’ll add a SHO cart to our lineup in the near future, so stay tuned.

FSE: “FSE” stands for “Full Spectrum Extract,” and butane is used just like with BHO, but the source material is different. Instead of dry flower being used, FSE producers use fresh-frozen flower—this is when the marijuana is immediately frozen after harvest. The freezing process bursts the plant cells, making the cannabinoids easier to extract, but it also preserves the terpenes that can be lost in the drying process that’s skipped with FSE. The end product that goes into a vape cartridge is actually liquid Live Resin, which is the tastiest, most potent concentrate on the market. For real, if you want to jump straight to the top and try the best cannabis vape cartridge on the market, come into our shop and pick up a Green Dot FSE cart. I can’t promise a lot, but I promise there’s nothing else like an FSE cart.

There! That’s all you need to know about the different types of cannabis vapes, but please, if you have questions, come see us at 208 Parker Avenue (or call us at 970-403-3710) and ask whatever you’d like. It’s very important to us that you understand the difference between our regulated cartridges and the bad ones on the street, and it’s also important to us that you know exactly what you’re putting into your lungs, because We’re Your Best Buds!

Live Rosin and THCa Crystals in Durango

Posted on November 2, 2019 - 9:00 am

My inner pot nerd is so, so excited right now, because the two products I’m writing about this week are both next-level dabs designed for the hashish connoisseur, and we’re the only Durango dispensary selling them. For real, I usually start these posts with a story or anecdote just to keep things fun, but I’m going to skip all that nonsense this time and simply jump right into it because I can’t wait. Let’s go…

Live Rosin is as good as a dab gets, and it takes a true extraction company to make this stuff properly—that’s exactly how I’d describe Kush Masters, who is our Live Rosin supplier. And the reason it takes a master to make this stuff is because Live Rosin is hash made from hash; let me explain. The first step is to make Bubble Hash, which is a touchy process. First, flower is put into an agitator with an ice-water bath. The ice water makes the trichome heads brittle, which are the THC-packed crystals on the bud’s surface, and then the agitation breaks them off. This creates a hash-filled slurry which is filtered through a series of micron screens, and then the resulting hash is put into a freeze dryer to remove the moisture, but all of that is just the first step.

Next, fresh-frozen flower is brought into the picture (this is when growers take their flower and freeze it immediately after harvest instead of drying and curing their crop). In fresh-frozen flower, all the terpenes are preserved via the freezing process, and the plant cells burst, which makes the extraction process much easier. Then comes the fun part: the fresh-frozen flower is covered in bubble hash, wrapped in steel mesh, and then put into a heated press. The combination of heat and pressure presses all the cannabinoids out of the mixture in the steel mesh, thereby leaving behind all the plant matter, and then boom, Live Rosin is born. In my opinion, Live Rosin is the pinnacle of dabs because it’s completely solventless, yet it has the potency of a hydrocarbon extract, which is rare indeed. Fun fact: rosin is called “rosin” because it looks like the rosin fiddlers use on their bows. Anyway, moving on…

THCa Crystals, or Crystalline, however, is the most potent concentrate on the market—this hash can come in at 99% THCa—and it takes a straight-up scientist to make this stuff. Once again, I’ll explain. First, more of that fresh-frozen flower is stuffed into an extraction tube through which supercritical butane is pumped. Butane is a hydrocarbon, so it strips from the plant matter all the cannabinoids to make an oil, which is poured out of the tube. Next, the oil (which is called “live resin” at this point) is put into a purge oven which removes the residual butane with heat and a vacuum pump. And then the live resin is put into a bath of acetic acid (the same stuff you’d find in vinegar) and hexane, which removes even more of the plant matter and impurities. The resulting solution is then put through a filtration system, and then into a roto-evaporator (which is a ridiculous machine that looks like R2-D2). The roto-evaporator uses heat and motion to separate out the THCa from the solution.

At this point, many crystalline makers take things a step further with a second bath of chloroform and methanol, which strips out all the terpenes to make a pure-white hash that’s 99% THCa, but that’s gross because terpenes give hash its wonderful taste. That’s why we chose Viola Extracts as our Crystalline supplier. They use only the first bath to make their crystals, which are referred to as “unwashed,” because skipping the second bath preserves all the flavor, which is a good thing. Their crystalline is in the 96% THCa range, and it still contains enough terpenes to give it a spectacular cannabis flavor as well as a nuanced high. Honestly, this stuff is simply insane.

Can you see why any pot nerd would blow a gasket over these dabs? Concentrates such as these simply didn’t exist before legalization because you need labs and chemists to make them, and even now that they exist, they’re exceedingly difficult to find in mountain towns like Durango because all the demand for crazy dabs lives in the big cities. And yet here they both are, sitting on the shelves at our Durango dispensary, because that’s how we roll. And please, don’t be put off by how complicated these two concentrates sound because they’re both easy to smoke—to learn two new ways of doing so, click HERE. Either way, please know that at The Greenery, we’ve always striven to bring the newest and best cannabis innovations to Durango, exactly like we’ve done with Live Rosin and Crystalline, because We’re Your Best Buds!

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Tag: dab dispensary durango

Dabbing Temperatures

Different Kinds of Marijuana Vape Oil

Live Rosin and THCa Crystals in Durango